An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Enjoy the juice
By dijkie
#56941
simonsais wrote:
Wed Jun 22, 2022 11:06 am
Thanks for doing this! Two questions:

Can i simply charge the battery, without detaching it? Which Power supply would you recommend?
Can i get the 36v 500W Controller with ESC wired up without detaching the battery?

So simply said, i would just buy a charger and a controller with ESC and it should run? :?
yes, next to the jiffy stand there is a small, with rubber cap covered, hole for standard e-bike charge plug.
i use that one for charging, no need to take out battery.
inside are 2 small wires to connect to the BMS change connections
By dijkie
#56943
Thibo946 wrote:
Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:16 pm
Here are some new pictures of the new battery
Any news ?
i see 84 cells. ( am i correct ?? )
only config possible then is 14x ( 6cells in paralel ) in series

then you need a 14S BMS and a 59V charger

with 14S there must be 70, 84 or 98 cells
with 13S there must be 65, 78 or 91 cells
By Thibo946
#56944
dijkie wrote:[quote=Thibo946 post_id=56934 time=<a href="tel:1656022561" data-original-title="" title="">1656022561</a> user_id=8623]
Here are some new pictures of the new battery
Any news ?
i see 84 cells. ( am i correct ?? )
only config possible then is 14x ( 6cells in paralel ) in series

then you need a 14S BMS and a 59V charger

with 14S there must be 70, 84 or 98 cells
with 13S there must be 65, 78 or 91 cells[/quote]

Yes, 84 cells
A 14S BMS sounds good to me
Same connections as for the other version?
User avatar
By Jevako030
#56947
dijkie wrote:
Fri Jun 24, 2022 9:36 am
Jevako030 wrote:
Tue Jun 21, 2022 12:34 pm
I opened the motorwheel and discovered that there are 3 hall sensors in it but not connected, I think this is the cause of
the jerking engine. So you have to connect it to your controller and pull 3 cables for it. A temperature sensor is connected and that is the red/black/white thin cable. You can connect this to the hall connector of your controller, but it has no effect on the shock, only on the temperature. The Lime motor controller also shows Temp
Image
ok, sounds good, but can you show the Hall sensors ?
it might be possible to connect using the 3 wires, the Ali controller doesn't care about temps, but the Hall might indeed help in solving the grinding noise and gives a smoother ride
I don't have a photo because my phone was empty, I just used your photo, so they are on the other side and you can see them clearly if you look closely.
You have to knock the wheel out and then you can get to it. I didn't dare do this yet because I'm afraid I'll break it and there are no Lime scooters in the Netherlands yet and I have to drive 3 hours to Belgium, but if I have a spare wheel I will definitely try it.
Image
By iddik75014
#56949
Thibo946 wrote:
Fri Jun 24, 2022 10:13 am
dijkie wrote:[quote=Thibo946 post_id=56934 time=<a href="tel:1656022561" data-original-title="" title="">1656022561</a> user_id=8623]
Here are some new pictures of the new battery
Any news ?
i see 84 cells. ( am i correct ?? )
only config possible then is 14x ( 6cells in paralel ) in series

then you need a 14S BMS and a 59V charger

with 14S there must be 70, 84 or 98 cells
with 13S there must be 65, 78 or 91 cells
Yes, 84 cells
A 14S BMS sounds good to me
Same connections as for the other version?
[/quote]

Ok for 14S BMS
But still the question is : will the motor burn with that new 48 v battery ?
Or will that new 48v battery never be used on that scooter with our "custom" Ali motor controller configuration ?

Another solution to use that new battery would be to change the stock motor with a new one of 48 v from Ali ?

Anyway, putting a more powerful 48 v motor will consume more energy and to go faster ...
With our actual configuration I ride at 35 km/h and I think personally it's enough
By Paulnathan
#56951
Thibo946 wrote:
Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:16 pm
Here are some new pictures of the new battery
Any news ?

Image
Image
Image
Hi I have the same exact battery I was just wondering how are you gonna bypass the output protection which stops you from using the battery for your own use, are you gonna replace the whole bms or do something else ?
By dijkie
#56958
yes, you have to replace the BMS.

it is not recommended to just bypass the original BMS by placing the wires directly to the power outputs.
then you will loose a BMS functionality risking to overcharge/overload/undercharge the cells, thereby destroying the pack
By ramblingjordan
#56959
I've come across some Gen4 v1 battery packs that I'd like to use to power some portable electronics and drone battery charging. I'd really like to use the integrated connector and rewire it to a new BMS so I can use it's weather proofing and hot swappiness.

I doubt I'm going to be able to source the male parts anywhere right?

I'm hoping someone here can help with measurements for the male end of the battery pack connector.

The metal parts in this picture.

Image
If I could get the width/length/height of the two styles of metal tabs that would be super helpful. I can suss out placement from the pack connector.

I'd be willing to buy a coffee for anyone that can help out!
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