An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES and Ninebot Max Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, etc.
By Ayden619
#15162
My rear wheel drive scooter is a es4 with new spin motor on back I had it working but took it apart to mess with it I plugged the bars back into the deck and now it makes a loud vibrating noise from motor and doesn't work the same
By FIN_teejii
#15778
Andain wrote:
Fri Jun 07, 2019 3:44 am
Hi guys,
I had a run on my ES4 the other day and after a steep hill it "coughed" and the front wheel (motor) started rattling. It almost sounded like something got stuck against the wheel, but there isn't.
I just got same proble, did you find solution to fix it?
By Ukjent82
#16015
Clones are exactly same as original, other than the mosfets.

Clone boards have 110 amp power mosfets and the original Es2 has 140 amp power mosfets.

I used a clone board and changed these to Irlb3040pbs mosfets rated for 180 Amp, and my god these make all the difference f**k original board, when you can make the clone better than original..

If you make sure to add copper and solder to the big tracks going to the mosfets and battery, you will hopefully have the scooter running mor power as you can lower MPC.
Well you might burn fets from then on hahaha

I also have SNSC 1.1 rental motherboard working without GPS and all this knowledge I got from ripping 3 clone boards for learning 😀😀😀😀
User avatar
By Stam
#16335
I had the same issue, my ES4 scooter had some weird quirks after I installed a sudo OEM 3rd party board. Flickering headlight, weird top speeds that'd seem inconsistent and constantly drop and rise slightly, eventually after one last E-break it started making noise and had reduced the motor's acceleration and break power significantly and caused a horrible noise. I replaced the front wheel motor with a different one thinking it was the motor, but the issue was the same with a different motor installed.
I took out the control unit and inspected it to find two blown tracks on the underside the circuit board. I used a small bit of bare wire and some solder to fix the broken tracks. This didn't fix my issue completely, it started acting as if the brake was constantly applied and would power off if I tried to use the brake or accelerator.
I reexamined the control board with a voltmeter and found the blown tracks I had just fixed had a short circuit across them. I removed a mosfet the blown tracks were connected to and the mosfet itself tested positive for continuity across all 3 leads, so it was broken/blown & the source of my short circuit. I desoldered a mosfet from a rental control board my scooter came with and soldered it onto the slot I removed the broken mosfet from on the 3rd party board. After I replaced that mosfet, the issues I mentioned all went away. The headlight doesn’t flicker or dim and the motor can accelerate and brake at full power, without that terrible noise.

Conclusion
My 3rd party board had a weak mosfet that slowly and eventually died after some use. This caused too much electricity to surge the following tracks and blew them like a fuse. After replacing the mosfet with an OEM mosfet and repairing the blown tracks with some wire and solder my issues disappeared.

If you decide to attempt this fix, make sure to drain the large capacitor on the middle of the board by taking a metal object with an insulated handle and touching it across both leads of the capacitor. It’ll make a decent spark so be sure to do this away from flammables and be prepared to flitch a little :lol: . Also handle the mosfets and board with care since a soldering iron makes everything it touches super hot.
By rem
#16491
Had the same problem. I tried to check the wheel without putting the tube on and its worked fine. When I put the tube on the noice was back. I checked all the cables and fixed some of them that lookt bad. Then it worked fine. 90% is the cables!
By Maxwellian
#16605
Stam wrote:
Wed Oct 09, 2019 2:34 pm
I had the same issue, my ES4 scooter had some weird quirks after I installed a sudo OEM 3rd party board. Flickering headlight, weird top speeds that'd seem inconsistent and constantly drop and rise slightly, eventually after one last E-break it started making noise and had reduced the motor's acceleration and break power significantly and caused a horrible noise. I replaced the front wheel motor with a different one thinking it was the motor, but the issue was the same with a different motor installed.
I took out the control unit and inspected it to find two blown tracks on the underside the circuit board. I used a small bit of bare wire and some solder to fix the broken tracks. This didn't fix my issue completely, it started acting as if the brake was constantly applied and would power off if I tried to use the brake or accelerator.
I reexamined the control board with a voltmeter and found the blown tracks I had just fixed had a short circuit across them. I removed a mosfet the blown tracks were connected to and the mosfet itself tested positive for continuity across all 3 leads, so it was broken/blown & the source of my short circuit. I desoldered a mosfet from a rental control board my scooter came with and soldered it onto the slot I removed the broken mosfet from on the 3rd party board. After I replaced that mosfet, the issues I mentioned all went away. The headlight doesn’t flicker or dim and the motor can accelerate and brake at full power, without that terrible noise.

Conclusion
My 3rd party board had a weak mosfet that slowly and eventually died after some use. This caused too much electricity to surge the following tracks and blew them like a fuse. After replacing the mosfet with an OEM mosfet and repairing the blown tracks with some wire and solder my issues disappeared.

If you decide to attempt this fix, make sure to drain the large capacitor on the middle of the board by taking a metal object with an insulated handle and touching it across both leads of the capacitor. It’ll make a decent spark so be sure to do this away from flammables and be prepared to flitch a little :lol: . Also handle the mosfets and board with care since a soldering iron makes everything it touches super hot.
I've just come across your post and it's well written and informative, I'm trying to repair a retail ES2/4 presently which seems to power along then just loose power (shows 0 or 5km/hr despite doing far more) and is unresponsive to throttle for a bit and again. I'm wondering if I have a similiar short/burn occuring. I've not yet pulled this apart but I'm wondering if you took any pics during your repair, I've love to take a look, until then I shall keep trawling the photos over this forum in hopes of photos of the controller.
By KagerouXD
#17407
Here is how I solve the rattling noise coming from the motor of my ES2, I found out that one of the hall sensor wire (green) was broken so I re-join them with some soldering and now it works perfectly without the sound anymore. So it might be the wiring problem, its worth the check.
By Walko
#17642
Did you ever manage to solve the rattling problem? I have the same problem too but not quite as loud. As well as the noise the electronic brake has become very noisy and shudders but still slows you down at around the same rate. I checked the cables coming from the controller and was surprised to see that they were in quite good condition. No fusing or melting, just one small bit of bare wire from rubbing I imagine which I covered with insulation tape. Also took the front wheel off and pulled the motor out. Gave it a very close inspection but can’t detect any fault. Don’t know what to do. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
By Walko
#17768
Follow up on mystery rattling noise. I first ordered a new original motor. Then I became convinced through reading these threads that it was the controller so changed the order to that. Then, whilst preparing for the new controller to arrive I finally spotted the problem. A broken wire. It was one of the 3 single wires coming from the motor, the blue one, snapped off where it enters the bullet connector plug. After a lot of soldering and supa glueing both which broke when refitting the stalk I finally got it with a new plug and some crimping. Good a new again. Ironically a new motor would have fixed the problem simply because its wires would have been good and I would never have known.

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