An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES and Ninebot Max Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, etc.
#20365
Sc00tr wrote:
Mon Mar 16, 2020 3:15 am
BLE555 is not necessary anymore now that the encryption has been broken.

STLinking it to a dash often results in the dash no longer being able to be flashed over IAP or over BLE, and the only way to update it will be by STLinking again.

If you have a windows computer or Xaioflasher on android, flash 1.1.0 FULL instead of 555 as it will allow you to still update.

where is this "flash 1.1.0 FULL" file?
#20381
I have done the conversion and it works well the first time. If I turn off the dashboard and turn it back on it codes 27. The controller password error code. If I plug in another dashboard the problem goes away for that one time then repeats.

Any help or suggestions for a solution would be much appreciated. Thanks for such a great guide.
#20382
Press throttle or break until the first beep as soon as you turn it on and it should go away.
Scooterking wrote:
Mon Mar 30, 2020 12:23 pm
I have done the conversion and it works well the first time. If I turn off the dashboard and turn it back on it codes 27. The controller password error code. If I plug in another dashboard the problem goes away for that one time then repeats.

Any help or suggestions for a solution would be much appreciated. Thanks for such a great guide.
#20383
joeyfreshwater wrote:
Sun Mar 29, 2020 9:43 pm
Sc00tr wrote:
Mon Mar 16, 2020 3:15 am
BLE555 is not necessary anymore now that the encryption has been broken.

STLinking it to a dash often results in the dash no longer being able to be flashed over IAP or over BLE, and the only way to update it will be by STLinking again.

If you have a windows computer or Xaioflasher on android, flash 1.1.0 FULL instead of 555 as it will allow you to still update.

where is this "flash 1.1.0 FULL" file?
https://files.scooterhacking.org/max/fw ... BLE110.bin
#20431
Scooterking wrote:
Mon Mar 30, 2020 12:23 pm
I have done the conversion and it works well the first time. If I turn off the dashboard and turn it back on it codes 27. The controller password error code. If I plug in another dashboard the problem goes away for that one time then repeats.

Any help or suggestions for a solution would be much appreciated. Thanks for such a great guide.
I believe I covered that in the guide. You will get error 27, thats why when creating a custom firmware you enable bypass Ninebot BMS Requirement. It disables the error.

Also just used my own guide to convert another scooter. Took about 30 minutes, everything worked properly. As far as not using BLE555 I will look into that, but I have had no issues with two scooters running BLE555.
#20433
There is no problem with using ble555 I have 2 or 3 on that as well, but try updating the ble firmware or changing it and you will see the problem. In addition some Bluetooth settings don’t save, I can’t remember off the top of my head which they are but they aren’t super important.
UnicycleSanta wrote:
Thu Apr 02, 2020 3:59 pm
Scooterking wrote:
Mon Mar 30, 2020 12:23 pm
I have done the conversion and it works well the first time. If I turn off the dashboard and turn it back on it codes 27. The controller password error code. If I plug in another dashboard the problem goes away for that one time then repeats.

Any help or suggestions for a solution would be much appreciated. Thanks for such a great guide.
I believe I covered that in the guide. You will get error 27, thats why when creating a custom firmware you enable bypass Ninebot BMS Requirement. It disables the error.

Also just used my own guide to convert another scooter. Took about 30 minutes, everything worked properly. As far as not using BLE555 I will look into that, but I have had no issues with two scooters running BLE555.
#20484
currently stuck on this step. i gave up trying to solder after so many times failing that i bought a frame programmer

Image
i successfully completed the other steps but this one the i keep getting the error "could not connect to the target. ive checked all the connections several times with no luck.

anybody have any ideas? there is even a red light that comes on on the controller when i make connections to all 3 points.
UnicycleSanta wrote:
Thu Mar 12, 2020 1:28 am
Part 3: Flashing the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC)

This section covers flashing the ESC to allow it to function like a retail unit. This is the most important step, as when you get a scooter from a rental company, the ESC is locked down to prevent usage. Flashing a dash and BMS wont get you anywhere without this.

Note: Another tutorial out there about unbricking an ESC says to navigate to a specific memory address and copy and paste some data. None of that worked for me, the addresses didn't exist, etc. I ended up just flashing the ESC with a fulldump file and it worked perfectly. This is my process.

1. Use a T15 security Torx to remove all the fasteners on the bottom panel of the scooter. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pop the panel on if the foam gasket is stuck:

Image

2. You will see the ESC tucked to the side of the battery near the rear of the scooter. Start by untucking as many wires as you can to get better access. Then, unscrew the ESC using a 3mm hex key on the 2 fasteners holding it in.

Image

3. Once everything is disconnected, you will notice the entire board is potted in clear silicone. I used a knife to carefully cut a square in the silicone for where I want to remove the material. If you do this, do NOT hit the board. Then I used a plastic spudger from a phone repair kit to clear the material out down to the board.

This is the board completely depotted, which you do not need to do. Just interesting to see.

Image

4. Solder the ST-Link leads to the corresponding pads. These are actually through hole solder pads, so if you know what you are doing you can solder the leads straight through for more durability. I did this and potted it in hot glue to make it more durable as I left the leads connected for possible future use.

Image

5. Plug the ESC into the ST-Link and plug the ST-Link into the computer. Open STM32 Utility (not STVP). Click Target -> Connect. The Utility should now be connected to the ESC and the table will populate. Press CTRL + B to disable Readout-Protection.

6. Go to File -> Open File and navigate to esc126_fulldump.bin downloaded from the Required Materials section.

7. Go to Target and click Program. The ST-Link will now program the ESC. Wait until you get a message saying the process has been completed, then disconnect the ESC and ST-Link and reassemble in reverse order.

8. When reinstalling the ESC, I chose to apply some thermal compound to the bottom side of the ESC to ensure thermal conductivity with the frame of the scooter. This is especially helpful later in the guide if you chose to up the power output of the scooter.

The ESC has now been flashed to fuction as a stock Ninebot Max. Do not plug anything in before verifying proper wiring of the scooter in the next part of this guide. Doing so may fry the dash or cause other problems as some of these scooters (All Lyfts, maybe other brands) come wired differently from the factory.
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