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Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
User avatar
By jonsmit
#18862
Hi guys, I've salvaged a dismantled tank from the street. No gps box, open frame, and controls, etc...
I've followed some links and advises from this crazy forum. Nice job guys.
The open display, engine, and battery, frame, look kind of ok with some deep tlc. No controller though...

I'm a bit at loss how to keep and connect the original display and controls to new controller.
I'm trying as much as possible to use some of the original connectors and parts.
I've already reused : the engine 3-phase connector, the power connector,
BUT:
* the black 5pin Hall juliet sensor looks ok but there is a 6th outside brown pin that was connected to old controller board??
* the cable from rear lights are ok, but how to connect to controller or controls??
* In general no light lines from new controller???
* How to connect the green 5pin juliet line from lcd display, thumb controls and brake handle to new controller??
in short, the whole mess, color codes and connectors don't match :D :D :D
etc...
The struggle is on, some good fun too.
But now, I need some help to finish. Any clues. Thanks people.
Image
Last edited by jonsmit on Wed Jan 22, 2020 1:42 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By jonsmit
#19062
Hi, Tank ex-Bird zero rehab.
My new controller is 48V - 500W - lower 42V - current limiting 28A.
The battery is 36V - 12,8Ah - 460,8Wh charging up to 96.2% / 97.5% max.
Front wheel engine is 36V - 250W.
Is that alright to use this controller for Bird zero es100 ?

Future plans:
1 controller 48V - 500W - lower 42V - current limiting 28A.
Battery coupler + 2 bird zero parallel batteries 36V - 12,8Ah - 460,8Wh charging up to 96.2% / 97.5% max.
front & rear 36V - 250W brushless engines ?
User avatar
By jonsmit
#19136
About the "XLD Brainpower motor controller XunLiDa".
check this tread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=96736

in ref. of diagram in my previous post
<< ... credits @philf
The "power and electric lock" function:
The heavy red and black are your main battery power.
The orange wire is the "ignition" which provides battery power to the actual controller logic.
The only wires you need (correctly) connected for the controller to actually turn the motor are:
the power, "ignition", hall sensors, phase wires, and throttle.
The "ignition" wire needs to be connected to to the battery, the same as the main power line (many people just tie them together). This is the orange wire that's part of the three contact power connector, as the unit ships, and they refer to it as "electric lock" in the diagram.
You *can* install a switch on the orange wire, which is what the intention was of bringing that wire out separately.
---
Phase and hall wires are standard.
There's a group of pads on the PCB - "5V", "U", "V", "W", and "GND" all together.
These are the red, yellow, green, white, and black hall wires, respectively.
---
The EBS brake wires are both grey and, when jumpered together, turn on the braking (or regen, if true) capability - provided the LVC and power source are compatible.
These are connected to pads labelled "DS" and "X" on the PCB.
when DS and X are connected, the regenerative braking is working.
The brake is connected to the provided wires outside the box.
---
The "high potential brake" (it's purple) is an input signal that would be used if this controller were used on a scooter. You'd connect this to the same 12V signal that drives the bike's tail light. It goes to "SH" on the PCB and has the same effect as shorting the low potential brake.
---
The low "low potential" brake (the one most of us actually use) is a black and white, going to "GND" and "SL", respectively. When shorted, this switches off motor power and activates EBS.
---
The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" (white being the actual throttle signal).
---
The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control.
Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2".
Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed.
Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low".
Short black to white and you get full speed.
---
The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted.
---
The "cruise function" (blue and black, going to "Q" and "GND", respectively) holds your current speed when shorted.
---
The "autometer signal" is blue, and connected to "S+".
It seems analogue (though probably just buffered PWM).
The faster you go, the more voltage you read on this line.
What's weird is that it hangs out of the controller, unprotected and uninsulated, but ramps up as high as 18V when the bike is at full throttle on a 39V pack.
I have no idea how I'd use this.
Any ideas?
---
There are two connectors for an alarm function - which I have NO idea about.
Any ideas?

Alarm power (red and black) goes to pads marked "PS+" and "GND".

Alarm signal is three wires - Grey goes to "A3", white goes to "W", and orange just brings back out full battery voltage (it's directly connected to the orange "ignition" wire).
Any ideas?
---
I'm dubious about the "sine wave" output of this thing.
>> Thank you for your insights.
User avatar
By jonsmit
#19158
Thanks @Pez, indeed.
I've found two.
* One trying to adapt an XLD 500W 48V brain power, and I hope to keep the original LCD and add some blinkers.

* The 2nd one, I try to hack the original controller with the insights from scootertalk.
So far I've just use the "Turn scooter on" from @basti256 via arduino nano connected to pc. This tank don't stop blinking. Now it just stopped blinking cause I've connected it to the charger and main.
What are the options to power the arduino from the zero original controller or lights?
The battery doesn't charge any more.
Now disconnecting the charger. Tank2 starts blinking mad again.
Thanks @Pez for your insight and help.
Last edited by jonsmit on Wed Jan 22, 2020 1:43 am, edited 4 times in total.
By magik
#19159
jonsmit wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2020 1:44 pm
Thanks @Pez, indeed.
I've found two.
* One I've stripped from the old controller and trying to adapt an XLD 500W 48V brain power, and I hope to keep the original LCD and add some blinkers.

* The 2nd one, I try to hack the original controller with the insights from scootertalk.
So far I've just use the "Turn scooter on" from @basti256 via arduino nano connected to pc. This tank don't stop blinking. Now it just stopped blinking cause I've connected it to the charger and main.

Thanks @Pez for your insight and help.
Hi, I try to use arduino ,u have any post for this pleasse ?
User avatar
By jonsmit
#19215
Nice tanks @Pez . Give us the intlzzzzz. Thanks.

Finally both are charging right to 96.2% & 97.5% max at this time.
One I've tried to hack with "turn_scooter_on" from @basti256 with arduino through PC powering.
Now if possible I'd like to power the arduino straight from original ES100 controller using some 5V line?
Any ideas how to? Thanks.

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