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Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
By M365GUY
#55948
I didn't realize that you were having a shop do the work. I thought you were doing everything. I'm actually surprised you found a shop to do anything to one of these scooters.
If you're not willing to learn this stuff and do it yourself it's probably better to stick with something off the shelf and doesn't require any programming. Why not just get another cheap controller but don't mess with the shunt ?

As for your question about the voltage and amp rating of the motor. Motors don't have anything inside of them that makes them a certain voltage or wattage. The voltage rating is mainly done for importing laws and other non important to us things. A 36v 400 watt motor could run at 100+ volts and 3000 watts.
Will it do that forever without getting hot and melting , no at some point it will get to hot and melt. But I have never smoked a motor and i run some very high power systems. I run a 16" 36volt 350watt hub motor at 126v 3700 watts and it barely gets warm. So don't get hung up on a motors rating, they really don't seem to mean very much.
By M365GUY
#55949
Currently working on building a rear suspension system for the B2 frame. I need to gain additional clearance for the large 11" knobby tires I want to use. Then the next challenge will be to build new front suspension to fit the larger tires.
By ReasonablePups6932
#55950
Yes, I’m pretty surprised I did too, I called about 50-60 shops until I finally found one. I mean I probably could do it. I’m just afraid I would mess something up and I’m not too good with soldering and wiring.

Do you know of a high-quality, reliable controller off the shelf that’s going to work with the B2 without getting fried?
That would be my main concern I have is the controller getting fried again and not so much the motor getting too hot and melting.
With the last 36V 350W controllers the motor did get pretty warm, but not too hot.

I was thinking about going with an off-the-shelf 36V 350W 16-18A controller. I want to get something high quality and reliable, that won’t get fried.
Let me know what controller I should get that won’t get fried again.



That suspension build certainly sounds like a challenge, the only bird to ever have an actual suspension system on it was the bird 0.
Both the B 2&3 have factory tires that are “automotive grade, have higher traction, with decreased vibration. Self-sealing, pneumatic tires to ensure a soft ride over all surfaces without risk of getting a flat or requiring complicated suspension systems that are prone to safety issues.”
I’m not sure how the rear suspension would work having the brake & motor mounts on the back wheel without having to relocate the brake and motor mounts.
With the front suspension maybe it would be possible if you can find the suspension from the Bzero with a longer front-fork bolt or use the suspension kit for the M365, however, those are just ideas and you definitely would know more than I would about that.
The way bird designed the 2&3, they didn’t add a suspension since the tires are meant to act as the suspension. Probably what they learned from the zero and the safety issues that arose from it is the reason they did it that way.
What I would do is maybe lower the PSI in the tire for a more comfortable ride or use nitrogen in the tire instead of using just plain air, or both. I have wanted to fill the tires with nitrogen instead of plain air just to see how it would be, but that's just what I would do.
Although I probably need to get it up and running with the right controller, before worrying about having nitrogen in the tires.
Let me know if you know of a good off-the-shelf controller I should get that won’t burn out again.
User avatar
By Chadiuss
#55955
[quote=M365GUY post_id=55949 time=1636065846 user_id=76007]
Currently working on building a rear suspension system for the B2 frame. I need to gain additional clearance for the large 11" knobby tires I want to use. Then the next challenge will be to build new front suspension to fit the larger tires.
[/quote]

What do you have on this suspension so far? Sounds fun. Also what do you think top speed would be on flipsky controller?
By ReasonablePups6932
#55957
@M365guy is doing the suspension on his. Currently, the suspension on mine is just the stock suspension from the tires.
I would imagine the top speed of the flipsky controller would be a little higher than 25mph, the demo video of it on a ninebot g30 max was 40KMph. @M365guy would probably know more about it than I would though.
By M365GUY
#55960
The suspension for the rear consists of cutting off the motor support arms and machining a hole on the frame to accept a 5/8" ss shaft supported by brass bushings. From there I built a new swing arm that the motor bolts to. So now the motor can pivot up and down on the shaft, just like a normal motorcycle or scooter. I am having problems adding pictures to this site. I will try again later.
But pictures explain it better.

I haven't taken my GPS out to get a top speed yet. And now I'm in the middle of building a new front fork to fit these 11 inch knobby tires.
If you want to see it check the ninebot sh*t.
I have it under ninebot max ultimate.

It will probably do at least 40mph, maybe more with the bigger tires.
I haven't really been tweaking the programming either, it's extremely mild right now.
By ReasonablePups6932
#55962
Wow, that sounds awesome. I wouldn’t have even thought that would be possible. That sounds like an incredible build.
What controller do you have it running for it to go 40mph? The Flipsky 75100?

I did call the shop and they don’t know how to use the VESC 3.0 tool and they don’t have a computer either.

Do you think is controller would work with the B2 without blowing out?
DC Brushless Speed Controller 36V-48V 350W 16-18A
By M365GUY
#55964
Look there are all made in China as cheap as possible with some of the lowest quality components they can source that still work good enough. If you are super worried about blowing another controller. And it sounds like you are. I would go with some of the more well know brands, KT, Brainpower ( although still not great ) ebikling ( not sure I spelled that correctly) there are a few others that have been around a while. You want to stay away from the no name ultra generic controllers,or anything that doesn't specify it's amp rating.
No amp rating is a big red flag for me at least, stay clear. The amp rating is the most important spec of any controller next to voltage. It's difficult to find well built controllers that are not multiple hundreds of dollars.

I am looking into a new brand that just recently introduced smaller controllers for ebikes , scooters and small ev. They are a big company with good history of large controllers for cars and stuff. The lowest cost unit is 40$ and looks pretty good. It takes forever to get them though. Still waiting.

Anyway I will try and add a few pics of that suspension I was working on last week.
Image
By M365GUY
#55965
This is just one of the handful of designs I am working on. The other one that i think will be better uses bike crank arms as the swing arms so it's more solid. That shock is just for mockup, I need to order the right weight and length and I haven't worked that out yet. I need to figure out how high I want it without any weight on it and how much compression it has with a few hundred pounds on it. I want at least 2 inches of travel, some scooters have like a half inch. Seems kinda pointless then.
I would really like to see how others have approached this if anyone has. I'm far from a suspension designer and know I'm probably going to have to redesign it many times before I'm happy with it.

Here is a picture of the Flipsky 75100, you should be able to gauge the size of it.
It's very small.
That's what she said...yea I know. Got it 👍
Image
By ReasonablePups6932
#55969
That’s kind of what I was afraid of was low-quality components, but it may have blown out just because of the shunt mod both times.
Super worried about blowing another controller is a bit of an understatement. I was scared the controller would do the same thing riding it after I got it back. Now I’m afraid to even use it ever again after I get it back this time.

36V 350W Brainpower controllers with the shunt mod were the ones I had both times.
Ebikeling looks like they only have a 36v 500W & 750W and a 36v 500W one.

I preferably would like to get a 36V 350w 16-18A controller but made with high-quality components that will last a long time.

I believe the brand of one on amazon is vicue and the amp rating is 16-18amps. I’d rather spend money on a very well-built controller than continue to spend a couple hundred each time it blows out on the install.
I’ve even called tesla to see if they had any controllers or mini controllers that would work, they do not.

I was thinking of just going with that one on amazon since it’s the specs I was thinking I need and not needing a shunt mod to boost the amperage, 36V 350W 16-18Amps.



That suspension build looks awesome and the suspension arms look really good.
If you’re looking for something extremely solid but firm and suitable for very high speeds. Maybe ordering the rear suspension parts from Rion from the Rion RE90 or any other Rion hyper scooter, since they’ve already done the research and development on it.
After looking at it a little more closely the way you have it set up and that you want it 2”, it almost reminds me of the Varla/Kaabo Mantis which they’ve also already done the research and development on it.

Mantis Front fork:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000252443351.html

Mantis Rear Fender? Wheel Assembly:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002899493450.html

Mantis Swing Arms:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000265726429.html

The rear wheel assembly might be a front fork, however, it does have mounts for the brake.
Now I’m not sure if either the Rion or Mantis parts would be compatible with the B2 or not, or if that’s what you’re looking for, but it’s just an idea.

I do like the flipsky 75100, but I don’t think either me or the shop would be able to program it. I like the idea of it though, something high quality, powerful, and small enough for the battery housing. Although, I’d probably need something high quality off the shelf that just needs to be installed.
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