An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
#2966
John_Doe_1337 wrote:
Thu Dec 13, 2018 7:03 am

EDIT:
Wait no that was pure nonsense. The capped bit is 5pin, not compatible with the blue 4pin seen on the control unit.
Image
This is where you would be plugging the five cables coming out from the unit. At the bottom of the tube.
The three big cables (BLUE;BROWN;YELLOW) go from the motor to (I guess) the battery.
The 5pin connector (RED;BLUE;GREEN;YELLOW;BLACK) would be the motor's electronic controls.
The 4pin connector (RED;GREEN;YELLOW;BLACK) could be for rear lights.

I'm thinking about this and comparing to the motherboard that I found in this ES2 Lime variant

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Analyzing the option of use an original dash and motherboard (stock) re wiring to use with this model cable interface and I think it's very possible.

Looking your info and pictures and comparing it with mines I found this.

a. In the original motherboard the outputs going to the motor and lights are this.
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1. Red arrows. Three big cables (BLUE;BROWN;YELLOW) to the motor.
2. Blue arrow. 5pin connector (RED;BLUE;GREEN;YELLOW;BLACK) would be the motor's electronic controls.
3. Green arrow. 4pin connector (RED;GREEN;YELLOW;BLACK) could be for rear lights.

Now...

In this ES2 Like variant we found just 2 cables going down. Numbers 2 and 5

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So, this two cables must "resume" the same info and power, or similar at least.

If we look in detail this two we can see this...

Image

Green arrows indicate the three big cables pointed in number 1 in the picture up (going to power up motor)

Pink arrows indicate the 5 cables pointed in number 2 upper picture (electronics control of motor)

Blue arrow indicate just three cables going to the lights. Just three cables for the back light because this variant don't have led under the pedal.

Have sense?
#2970
robirdhood wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:49 am
I stay away from limes... unless I’m having fish tacos. Anyways, it’s really simple to restore an es1 and es4 back to their Segway state. And you don’t need to switch anything out other then the dashboard. Also you don’t need to buy anything to get these things going, the parts are right outside, just use your head. The problem is, it’s so easy it’s addictive, and remorseful. 🥂
So, correct me if I'm wrong, your magical solution isn't applicable to Lime models?
#2976
robirdhood wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:10 pm
Lime, to my knowledge, modify their scooters so the parts are not interchangeable like Segway scoots. Though the process on this lime was interesting, I can confirm it’s not worth the amount of work when other models are as easy as switching one thing.
Yes in deed, you are right. But here we are trying to solve it.

Frist solution ready!
carbacca wrote:
Sat Dec 15, 2018 7:28 pm
images here - excuse the camouflage. am also waiting for another enclosure box to tidy it up a bit
https://imgur.com/a/j4wh2HF

the two parts i used - box and wiring instructions all chinese - beware if you dont read chinese....

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Finger- ... 1a2eyCz3Pd

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/36V-48V ... 8f12Gi1fLm


:idea:
#2997
Zik wrote:
Sat Dec 15, 2018 8:08 pm
Image

This is the old Lime model, which as far as I know its somewhat custom, so it makes sense that official ES2 parts don't fit out of the box.
Thing is, now Lim is replacing them with stock ES4 Ninebots:
Image

So now it should hopefully be a drop&replace operation to get them rolling.
#2998
Sativanz wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:23 am
There must be a solution to signal the controller to power up, without purchasing additional hardware. Could there be aa usb interface onboard a lime already?
There's nothing like USB interface, I just got two unconnected cables.

One in the green GPS box (connected to GPS/SIM module). (Red arrow)
Image


The other one, a 5 pin cable to the motherboard. (Number 7)
Image

Neither of them USB
#2999
Sativanz wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:23 am
There must be a solution to signal the controller to power up, without purchasing additional hardware. Could there be aa usb interface onboard a lime already?
An Ace Mouseclicker could do it. One would just need to figure out the communication scheme and commands what replicate the absent components.
Then program a processor to handle it.
As off the shelf parts are available & not insanely expensive. Its fools errand, or just a fun Hacker excersise.
But entirely possible.

Said that, I wont be surprised if parts intended for other scooters can work.
Just identify the pinouts functions and reconfigure accordingly.
Last edited by Ben J on Wed Dec 19, 2018 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#3001
I took an M365 Turd Scooter and bought a dash board on ebay that came with a motor controller. Im told its a clone an the board is deffinatly different. It turned on w/it and ran but ran slow as sh*t. No apps would recognize it or pair except M365 downg. Paired right up, my intent was to flash the firmware to resolve the shitty performance. Wouldnt flash. It would respond to asking its version or battery info. All perameters were blank and n/a. Its the purple clone board. I was told that new controller was crap and thats why craopy performance. The plugs are different and I de-soldering the harness from the original board and soldering the clones hsrness to use the original motor controller with new clone dash. Didnt work. Decided to just go back to what dud work even tho it was poor performance and unflashable but during the second round of desoldering harness and resoldering I had problems getting sh*t to stick, then had wires stuck together due to closeness, de-soldered re-soldered until I f***ed it up and got it too hot and burnt a resitor on the board. f**k!
Thats what I decided too, to just buy one of those motor controllers for ebikes and scooters and get one that cones with a monitor to have motor function info and forget about trying to make original sh*t work. Mine has the box under the base so I wont have that aluminum controller strapped to the neck. The other option is pay more and buy OEM dash and controller and go original like factory original which is the best way, just cant really know when the chinese fuckers tell you yes, yes, original, and then send you a cheap-*ss clone. What are ya gonna do?
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