Electric Scooter Forum for Scooter Enthusiasts, Scooter Chargers, and Scooter Mechanics.

Brains of the e-scooter. Topics covering controllers, throttles, etc in this section.
#13594
Just got done converting 2 Bird Zero's and I'm having the same problem on both of them. When I go to ride them, they start off fine but then when I give them full throttle the motor starts to shake/vibrate violently and they won't pick up speed. Motor spins fine with no load.

Using:
Chinese universal controller
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 4035620186

Things I've tried:
-Following the wiring troubleshoot guide (pictured).
-Resoldering all my connections
-Following the wiring troubleshoot guide and unplugging the controller from power every time, and relearning the motor with the 2 "motor learning" leads on the controller.

I have another 2 Zero's that I converted with a different Chinese controller and they both worked perfectly fine. I used a cheaper controller this time around because I thought they would work fine.

This is the controller I used for the 2 Zero's that DO work fine: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2583980617

Maybe the new controllers I'm using are just pieces of crap? To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.



#15028
They actually are very similar to VESC in the fact that VESC(which is a particular design brand name) was able to bring FOC to ebike/esk8 bigger higher load applications. The new zero, razors and limes have sinusoidal controllers. They also appear to be based off a popular Chinese controller that most of these are based off and there are several places to find custom open source fw and even tuning apps + cycle analyst/display capabilities. I just haven't had time to get one hot wired it looks to be pretty simple and several of them are using slightly modified or altered consumer units. Take these units apart do PCB searches you'll find schematics most of them are labeled anyway I don't think they will be very difficult to hack I just don't have much interest because I have moved on to FOC controllers on all of my hot rod projects. I am doing a dual zero 350w motor, w/rear disk brake, lime frame and running a dual 4.20 flipsky with a cpu cooling system for an overclocked gaming PC setup and the fan/cooler cost as much as the ESC but if I have to buy another due to it overheating (drv's are fairly sensitive), that's not going to make me happy. I'm expecting a big things from this setup. anyway the newer motors have a different commutation to run these controllers there's are only 16 amp I'm going to be running somewhere around 40a on each of mine under full load uphill I project so I shouldn't even be getting close to its capabilities. if this works out well I'm going to start looking into bigger tire options and believe that some 11-in nobbies are available and will fit with some persuasion on the zero wheel. The different commentation that is the reason for the chatter. FOC is an entirely different commutation or wave pattern. Ninebot and early zero's were setup traditional delta commutation, I can't speak for lime. FOC is more efficient and intuitive. There's also several different configuration for the motors running Delta, if you try and hook a 120° motor to a specific controller like the ninebot running a 60° motor and don't flip the outer hall sensors it will never function properly.. there may be a way to alter the newer lime and zero motors as well I don't know but I do know that has something to do with the issues described about. Also there should be at least one white wire that is left over that is a pole position sensing wire or a temp sensing wire and goes to the board on the rotor so I'm sure it's important to form a circuit. Good luck!

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