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#17124
Hello,

I found a discarded Jump battery pack with the following specs:
Model - INR 18650MH1-10S4P (R10 BMS)
12Ah
37v
444Wh

It has two female cables connections I don't recognize sticking out of it and appears to be in good condition.

I would like to repurpose those battery. What's possible? It would be cool to turn it into a large power bank for devices, power an electric bike, connect to a solar panel, or any number of other projects.

I'm a complete novice and I'm not sure where to begin or how to charge this thing given I didn't also find a charging set up. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Many thanks!
Image
#17136
Green plug has 2 thick wires (output) and 2 thin wires for charging. The other harness powers the display board.
It should be possible to tap into the thin charging wires with any 36v charger. Cut the plug and tap into the wires. It should work.
Hopefully someone has some better advice to help you.
#19489
Hi I also found one of these batteries and I have found Leinbach batteries and managed to connect them together in series but for some reason they did not last very long I will figure out how to use this same battery that you have and let you know how it works. But in the meantime have you found out anything about how to use it yet?
#20406
hi, i can tell you if you want charge it you can use yellow big wire like + and the close black wire like - /
you can take a chinese charger for litio 10 dollars at 42VDC 2 A.
And if you want to see 40V or 36V output from the red and black wire, you have to use a combination of bridge in the wite square small connector with 8 wires, (rosa, red, green, blue , black etc)
the real problem is if you take out the pcb passing out the red output wire to have DCV without on / logic integrated it goes in down and you cannot charge newer again with yellow an black wires!
sun of biches them of jump! ( real good job ).
i cannot say you wich wires you have to bridge to put on the battery cause i use the display and it make in 5 seconds all in automatic, sometime connecting yellow and green but not all the time...
so best way is take a pcb alternative ad connect it, also beacuse this battery is a 250 dollars one..
tell me if you have news
caio
#20743
Output Power:

As mentioned prior, to draw a consistent amperage you must run 4 jumper wires across the smaller white cube, for example
1-->1
2-->2
3-->3
4-->4

+ & - Leads will run from the other larger Molex connector, use the red and black mains.

Charging:

Use the yellow and black (+ & - respectively) as input wires and charge at <=1c to be safe --> 42V @<= 15A if you have the capable PSU otherwise link PSU's in parallel to reach your goal amperage.
#20947
jojopip wrote:
Mon Apr 27, 2020 4:20 pm
Output Power:

As mentioned prior, to draw a consistent amperage you must run 4 jumper wires across the smaller white cube, for example
1-->1
2-->2
3-->3
4-->4

+ & - Leads will run from the other larger Molex connector, use the red and black mains.

Charging:

Use the yellow and black (+ & - respectively) as input wires and charge at <=1c to be safe --> 42V @<= 15A if you have the capable PSU otherwise link PSU's in parallel to reach your goal amperage.
Do you have a picture of how to do jumpering on the white cube.
#22347
That's a battery off a JUMP 5.5 electric bike, not a scooter. They have a CAN bus in the BMS.

Though they'll take a charge and read their voltage on a multimeter, they'll cut power immediately if hooked up to anything without the accompanying signal from the bus.

I can't imagine that jumping that JWFP connector is going to do a thing. If jumping the pins actually works, can someone explain *why?* (And preferably show a photo so nobody blows their BMS or battery sky-high).
#25676
Bike Share Museum wrote:
Tue Aug 04, 2020 9:04 pm
That's a battery off a JUMP 5.5 electric bike, not a scooter. They have a CAN bus in the BMS.

Though they'll take a charge and read their voltage on a multimeter, they'll cut power immediately if hooked up to anything without the accompanying signal from the bus.

I can't imagine that jumping that JWFP connector is going to do a thing. If jumping the pins actually works, can someone explain *why?* (And preferably show a photo so nobody blows their BMS or battery sky-high).

I signed up on this forum just for this thread. I have acquired a large quantity of these batteries, and can confirm the jumpering of the white connector works perfectly. I have cycled one of these many times this way. I still have not figured out the one comment about "seeing 36 or 40v on the red wire to jumper combinations of the white connector" - not sure what that means. Since the white connector is a CAN bus, there's no possibility to "blow it sky high" right ? I like the idea of this having a BMS integrated that is usable, but dislike the fact that it is proprietary and probably capable of so much more, and we have to hack it with jumpers to make it work. I'm interested in reverse engineering the CAN bus to be able to have bi-directional comms with the BMS. Anyone else interested?

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