An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
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By Chadiuss
#55720
MrMustache wrote:
Mon Sep 27, 2021 12:55 am
BMS Bypass from the positive P+ to the positive B+ That's it
Image
Did this wire prove to be thick enough? Can anyone else say what gauge they’ve used successfully?
By xekisx
#55735
its a 10-12ga , stranded, and yes that solution about the BMS came from me. and you are very welcome.
By heilo
#55741
AntiSocialB0t wrote:
Mon Jul 19, 2021 3:03 pm
Great news!
After some testing, I can say that the same Methode and controller as used with the Bird One 590, still works with the Bird Two.
What method is that?
By M365GUY
#55897
Yo P&j or whatever you go by. Can you please stop posting videos of your procedure of converting these things ? Dude I just don't think this needs that kind of exposure and I see no benefits from posting it. All your doing is giving people who don't know what they are doing a quick look at what to do to get one of these working. It's not good, and although I'm sure you enjoy the stroke to your ego from people telling you how awesome you are I just don't think it's smart to post on YouTube.
Just my opinion, not trying to be a dick but just think about it. Your exposing yourself to problems for zero gain.
By ReasonablePups6932
#55940
Anyone that has successfully converted a bird 2, what controller reliability works with it?

I want to use a controller that’s high quality, reliable, and won’t blow out.

The first one was a 36V 350w 13Amp with a torque bypass. It went about 5 miles until it blew out.
The second one I used was a 36V 350w 13Amp controller, again with the torque bypass. It went about 3 1/2 miles before blowing out.

Currently, the battery is fully charged and when you give it throttle it doesn’t do anything. The only thing working is the Head & Taillight.

I’d like to know why this keeps happening, am I using the wrong controller? Is it because of the torque bypass? or am I doing something wrong riding it?

Any controller suggestions & links that will reliably work with bird 2 would be greatly appreciated!
By M365GUY
#55942
What is a torque bypass? Never heard of any controller with a torque bypass, why would you want to bypass torque ? If you are not looking for the cheapest possible solution check out the new Flipsky FS75100. It's tiny and will do everything you want and more.
By ReasonablePups6932
#55943
A torque bypass is a small bridge of wire inside the controller to increase the amperage of the controller, sometimes called a shunt bypass or shunt mod.



It doesn’t bypass the torque itself, it's meant to increase the amount of torque.

My main goal is so that the controller doesn’t get fried or have it burn out again. It may have burnt out the controller due to the shunt bypass/mod.

My only concern with the Flipsky FS75100 is that it's 72V 100Amps. I don’t know too much about what I need to get, but shouldn’t the controller be only 36V and less than 20Amps?
Have you been successful with getting that one to work in a 2? and having it work for a while?

I do want to get something that’s going to fit in the battery housing and a controller that’s high quality, reliable, and not going to blow out again or blow out any battery cells.
By M365GUY
#55944
Oh that's just called a shunt mod, never heard anyone refer to it as a torque bypass. Considering you fried both of your modded controllers, have you considered that you might be going a little too much with the shunt mod ? That's exactly what happens when you add to much solder or wire to the shunt. It's only safe for maybe 15-20 percent, going over that is a definite way to smoke your controller.

How much did you add to the shunt ? I have heard of people adding a additional wire to the underside of the shunt, that's not the right way to do it. It should only be done on the actual shunt on one side only. Typically before it bends you just kinda butter it up like a taper before the curve. Just a little bit will of added solder will decrease the resistance and make the controller think it's putting out less current than it is. You can always add more but it's a little difficult to remove it.

Anyway about your voltage concerns regarding the 75100, you can run the controller on anything above 14 volts. You don't have to run it at 72. That's just the Max voltage rating. If you want to stick with 36 volts. No problem.
You configure all that info in Vesc Tool 3.o when you setup the controller.
By M365GUY
#55945
And I haven't installed it on a B2 yet but I have on a ninebot max. It's the same thing, the bird 2 motor is actually a better motor with wider magnets and thinner laminations. It will probably be faster on a B2 motor. I installed a 96v controller on a B2 and that thing was insane. The most awesome thing about the Flipsky 75100 is it's smaller than most 350 watt controllers. It's like the size of a pack of smokes. Not sure how they made it so small and still powerful. Maybe they have a shrink ray.
By ReasonablePups6932
#55946
Sorry about that, that’s what the electric bike shop I took it to was calling it a “torque bypass”.
I had the e-bike shop do the shunt mod so I’m not exactly sure how they did it or how much they added or didn’t add, but possibly enough for the controller to get fried.



The nominal voltage on the B2 I believe is 36 V, so would that be what it needs to be set at?
Is there a way to set the Amps as well? I had thought anything above 20amps is too high.

What Flipsky had said directly about the B2 was, “Fsesc75100 foc is definitely ok. It mainly depends on your battery, the configuration of the motor, and the power of the motor. If the maximum current of your motor does not exceed 20A, then your scooter cannot meet 20A”

I believe the B2 has a nominal power of 400 W, which I assume is the power rating of the motor. It was going 32mph on the previous 350w controllers with the shunt mod, obviously now 0mph.

You know much more than I do, but wouldn’t 96v be too high?
The Flipsky 75100 does sound good. I just am worried about it putting out the right amount of power, volts, and amps and that configuring the Flipsky the Vesc Tool 3.0 may be a bit too complicated for the shop to do, which most likely they’ve probably never done anything like that before and they would probably ask me for all the info that needs to be configured on it.

I’ve asked about what kind of controller and parts I need to get and they say that “they don’t know, if I bring in the parts they can install it, but they’re just the mechanics.”
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